For much of the time since Swiss brothers John and Peter Delmonico opened their confectionary on William Street in 1828, expanding it two years later into an ambitious restaurant, French has been the cuisine of fine dining in New York City. Yes, there have been exceptions to the rule that French equals high-end: in the 1890s an immigrant Gallic neighborhood flourished around Broadway and 25th Street, spawning a handful of working-class eateries such as J.B.G.'s , where a six-course set meal known as a table d'hA te was available every night for the bargain price of 60 cents.
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